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The Old Picture Album 

  The large heavy photo album was kept on a shelf inside my grandparents’ ancient teak almirah. Sometimes, one of them would lift it down carefully to turn its pages and show me old pictures, some of which went back to the late 1800’s. I recall seeing several sepia-toned posed photographs of my paternal grandfather’s parents, my great-grandparents, one sitting, the other standing, with their young children around them. I learned to point to the serious-looking toddler who, I was told, was my paternal grandfather. I remember searching for even the slightest resemblance to my grandfather as I knew him then while I was still little; he was aging, medium-built, lean and bald with an aquiline profile and not finding any congruence, I accepted it as fact anyway, as one of those things that would probably make sense by and by in a world that I was still getting to know.


    My grandfather would often tell me anecdotes from his childhood. He grew up in a large joint family in their family home near Udipi in South Kanara district now in the state of Karnataka, going to school and then attending university in the port-city of Madras (now Chennai) on the east coast of India as the 19th century drew to a close. My grandfather graduated with a bachelor’s degree in finance and accounting and took up a job as a bureaucrat with the central Indian government in the Ministry of Finance. He left his ancestral home and family behind in South Kanara and undertook the long journey north to Delhi, to India’s capital that was to be his home for the next four decades.

    Then followed portraits taken during this ensuing period of my grandfather as a young man in a formal suit, trim, with aquiline features, a neat mustache and serious countenance, in studios, outside his home or in front of the stately building where his office was. In some, he wore a stately turban, looking serious and important.

    There were family photos too. Some of them showed him posing with his growing family - his first wife sitting holding a baby, a toddler at her knee, and her daughter standing next to her, shoulder-high. I learned early on that my grandfather’s first wife had died early of mysterious female medical complications, leaving behind three motherless children and her young husband who had just begun his career in government service a few years before.

    It was only when I grew up that I began to realize what this experience might have been like for my grandfather at a time when his adult working life had just commenced, to lose his young wife and to have to care for a daughter and two very young, almost infant, sons. He never spoke to me about how he had felt, only about the objective events that took place although he would often lapse into a thoughtful silence after mentioning them. His mother and an elderly female relative traveled all the way to Delhi to help him to tide over the immediate disruption and loss. I would imagine that not long after that a collective decision was reached about the advisability and necessity of remarriage, if not for himself, then most definitely for the young children, No one could deny that they needed a mother. And his mother was not at a stage in her life when she could have taken on the surrogate care-giving responsibilities.

    It did not happen right away although a suitable match was found soon. The girl was from a family in Kasaragod, the eldest daughter of a school-teacher but she was still very young, in her early teens. The elders felt that she had the right background, temperament and skills to fit into the life that my grandfather had built for his family in Delhi and so both families waited for a couple of years until they felt that she was ready to make the transition. My grandmother was 16 when she made that first train journey up north to Delhi to join her new husband, my grandfather, at long last. There was an age gap of 19 years between them. She never really shared any details about how that first phase of her new life went, only about discrete events that followed. She had a good deal to adjust to, having grown up in a largely rural region in South India, a quiet and slow environment where she helped her mother with household chores and childcare, she being the eldest of many siblings. Now her life was transformed on many levels and she must have felt challenged and perhaps even overwhelmed, caring for three young children not her own and running a full-fledged household while her husband worked and steadily moved upwards in the Finance Ministry.

    Before long my grandmother had three children of her own, two sons and a daughter and each time she traveled back to her parents’ home in Kasaragod to give birth. My father was the youngest of the four sons in the family. He was good-natured and loved to play pranks and crack jokes. He looked up to his brother and step-siblings who were several years older, but who liked and were protective towards the younger children, by and large. The album contained very few pictures taken during this phase; in the few that were there, the basic facial features of my father as a young boy and those of my aunts and uncles did resemble the way they had looked as I was growing up.

    The family’s lives settled into a predictable pattern. They spent the cooler months of the year in Delhi and the hot months in Shimla up in the hills. Every year, they moved house twice between Delhi and Shimla along with the government, every April to Shimla in the hills and every October, back to Delhi in the plains. My grandmother would talk about the Herculean effort involved in dismantling and then re-establishing the household twice a year. In Shimla, they lived in a house on a hill near a temple, and my grandfather would walk to his office which was a small distance away. For years my grandfather would go to work everyday and return home most evenings via the local club where he would play tennis. Sometimes, my grandmother and he or their children would go on walks together up and down the steep inclines and levels that made up the picturesque hill-station. The album had pictures of them pausing during a walk to pose for a camera, in some of them, my father’s younger sister, a growing adolescent smiling shyly at the lens.

    Decades later I came across the following description for Shimla on a Delhi Tourism website: Shimla, the famous holiday resort that was once the summer capital of the British Raj, is now the state capital of Himachal Pradesh. Draped in forests of oak, pine and rhododendron, it is situated at a height of 2,130 m and is blessed with perennially cool air and superb panoramas. Like most hill stations, it sprawls across ridges at many levels, connected by steep lanes. It has now grown into a large, prosperous town and is on its way to becoming a cosmopolitan centre. It is famous for its buildings styled in Tudor and Neo-Gothic architecture reminiscent of the colonial era. The British government used to leave the winter capital at the end of March or beginning of April and move to Shimla until the end of October. Once the Kalka-Shimla railway line was laid down in 1903, Shimla became the favourite haunt of those wanting to escape the summers.

    They had visitors now and then, family and old acquaintances. Anyone from their particular Saraswat community who was connected to any of their family branches would look them up and visit or come to stay for brief periods when they came to the north for any reason, for work, to go on a pilgrimage, to visit their own families. Life revolved around work and family routines and the hosting of family and close friends. Although she had all the household help she needed, my grandmother discovered that she enjoyed cooking and took it upon herself to make many of the traditional dishes and snacks she had learned to cook. Every time that someone visited, it was an excuse to cook, and over time, she became very proficient at it, developing her own recipes and variations. Years later, we would hear her discussing with a visitor how she made something crispier than the original recipe called for or how many different variations there could be of a recipe.

    The children grew up; eventually the older ones married and moved to the plains and down south to Bangalore and Bombay and other places. They came back to visit. During a family reunion in Shimla, they all posed for a family picture during an outing, the young people looking tall and lanky, draped against a large rock, some like my father, a strapping young man climbing up to a higher level, everyone looking at the camera. I could recognize most of them, some decades older and changed in appearance, including my father who filled out a little over the years and lost much of his hair to his great chagrin.

    But in that family photograph, there was one person I did not know and did not recognize because I never met him, He was my grandmother’s first-born son, my father’s older brother whom he was very attached to and looked up to, who died prematurely at the young age of 18 from typhoid. It was before the discovery of the antibiotic drugs that could have cured the condition. I could not begin to imagine what that must have been like and how it must have affected them all. I don’t recall anyone speaking about him much. By the time I came along, I realized, much time had gone by and all the tears had been wept and some kind of peace made with his loss and absence from their lives.

    When my grandfather retired in 1939, he had worked for the government for almost four decades and all those years were spent in the north, in Delhi and Shimla. The north had become a home to them, the house on Allenby Road in Delhi, the house in Shimla, their routines were familiar and settled. Now, my grandparents began to consider where they wanted to spend the rest of their lives.
My grandfather received an offer to serve as financial advisor for two years to the Maharajah of Bikaner, Maharajah Ganga Singh, in the state of Rajasthan to the west of Delhi, which he accepted. Folding up their house for the last time and sending all their larger belongings to my grandfather’s brother’s house in Madras, my grandparents traveled to their new temporary home at the edge of the Thar desert, dry and hot year round with no respite, except in winter when nights could be freezing cold.

    The album had some pictures of them posing on a bench with the royal gardens behind them. Their quarters were more than comfortable in the Laxmi Niwas palace and they often took walks, admiring the gardens and palace. But all too soon, the idyll ended and this time, they were headed south towards their next destination, homewards, back to where they had each started from, decades earlier.

    The old picture album traveled with them and became a treasured possession over the years that they would turn to now and again, as they moved into the twilight phases of their lives. It became our only link with their lives spent living in other worlds and times now past. It occurred to me that when someone brought out that old worn album that we all felt oddly animated. For us who had not shared that phase, it became a window into those worlds, a tacit validation of the stories we heard from them. For my grandparents, and my father and his siblings, the album held proof that their own memories, fleeting and ephemeral, were also real, of a long phase of life lived, true and complete in itself.

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(c) 2017 PRB
My Indian Childhood

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